Going Local: Observations Since Returning to the Homeland

Teater Dian Open Call E-flyer

1. Teater Dian (Education)

A few friends and I are working to stage Shakespeare’s Hamlet in early July 2011 (the e-flyer is above! Do spread the word about the open call to friends who might be interested in acting). In this project, we are experimenting with the Wayang Kulit theatre as the optic through which we tell the story of Hamlet. We started out wanting to explore Asian – Southeast Asian, Chinese, and Indian – theatre, but eventually managed to find a better fit by narrowing our focus to the Wayang Kulit theatre, specifically the form practiced in Central Java.

This is due to the similarities that Hamlet and the Wayang Kulit theatre have in common – Hamlet’s ability to communicate with supernatural beings (the ghost of his father) and the Wayang Kulit’s illustration of man’s relationship to the cosmos.

[Side note: “Teater Dian” is “Candle Theatre” translated into Indonesian (also Javanese and Malay). In the early days, settlers who came to Singapore would tell stories by candlelight. When the candle had burned out, these stories would end, and the settlers would have to light another candle to begin again. It was in this spirit of communal storytelling that Teater Dian was formed]

The concept was particularly inspired by Theatre Moollee’s re-staging of Macbeth that was staged as part of the Singapore Arts Festival 2010. The performance, in the style of the theattre of cruelty, focused on Lady Macbeth’s guilt at instigating Duncan’s murder. In incorporating shamanistic ritual, chanting, and traditional Korean instruments, it was incredibly effective in communicating the sense of hauntedness Macbeth and Lady Macbeth experienced, and caused the audience to suffer as much in their seats as the characters did on stage. You can watch a clip of the play here to get a sense of how it was done:

It’s been an interesting experience so far playing the role of the (amateur) cultural mediator: processing the knowledge I have of Indonesian culture and passing it on to others. In the first creative meeting that we had, Silei and I had to translate the experience of traditional Javanese performing arts (that emphasizes community ritual and archetypal characters from Indian epics which many are familiar with) to fellow Singaporeans friends who are far removed from the Indonesian cultural context.

Even in the process of translation, there was a disjunction between what we were trying to communicate of Javanese culture and an average Singaporean’s lived experience. This would be attributed to two causes:

  1. Singapore’s status as a ‘cultural orphan’ owing to our migrant history makes it difficult to communicate a strong sense of tradition
  2. Singapore’s emphasis on materialism resulting from the hyper-modernity that accompanies economic progress might have caused us to forget what is ‘sacred’, or ‘spiritual’, which seems to be prioritized in Javanese culture. Or it could just be due to the culture of pragmatism. This is a quote from an article (“John Gray on Humanity’s Quest for Immortality”, The Guardian 8th Jan 2011) that I’ve been chewing on:

“Their [philosophers of the 19th century] quest for an afterlife was partly driven by revulsion against materialism. Science had revealed a world in which humans were no different from other animals in facing oblivion when they died and eventual extinction as a species. For nearly everyone the vision was intolerable. Not fully accepted by Darwin himself, it led the biologist and explorer Alfred Russel Wallace – acknowledged by Darwin as the co-discoverer of natural selection – to become a convert to spiritualism. Wallace insisted he did not reject scientific method. Like Sidgwick and Myers, he was convinced science could show the materialist view of the world to be mistaken.”

If this repeats itself, an over-saturation of modernity has the potential to drive societies towards primitivism and by extension, tradition. Is this possible in Singapore?

2. Notes on research

  1. Someone once told me that research was a lonely business – I’m starting to understand why. On the other hand, I’m very thankful that I’m doing a project that forces me to interact with people (online and consequently more so offline). The relationships I formed during my trip, and the knowledge that this project does make a difference to the community (even if it may not be a significant one!) gives me motivation to plod on
  2. Writing (communicating) effectively is difficult to do, especially when I am tired or panicked! Nevertheless I still hope that this project will be able to accomplish what I proposed, to help the stakeholders in the Wayang Kancil community in managing this cultural resource.
  3. I’m like a blind man feeling an elephant. Unlike the blind men in the story, however, each new discovery brings me closer to fitting the pieces of the puzzle together, and in time (ideally) I will be able to see the big picture

Blind men feeling an elephant

Ayam Goreng back to Singapore – 1 / 2

The above quote came from Mbah (Grandfather) Ledjar, over a simple supper near his house. If you haven’t yet seen the light, it reads: “I am going (Ayam Goreng) back to Singapore”.

Eleven days later, we are now back in Singapore! Unfortunately, I couldn’t update more there, there was just too much to see and do to be on Facebook! I now present two highlights of days 7 – 11:

 

(i) All Night Wayang

 

We had the opportunity to watch three all-night Wayang performances in two days! Impossible, you say – well, we watched one full one and two halves.

Tis the season for Wayang performances. According to the Javanese calendar, it is the Sura month, marking the beginning of a new year. It is also known as the Rijal month, meaning the light of life created by the mystical power of god / gusti. In this season, several ceremonial rituals are held (we are just in time to catch them!).

#1: 16th December 2010 – Ceremonial rite, Sultan’s brother’s house

Stage @ Sultan's brother's home

The first performance is held at the Sultan’s brother’s home at a square near the Kraton. The dhalang is Ki Seno Nugroho (Ki, meaning “Sir”, is the address for male dhalangs, while “Nyi” is the address for female ones, as a show of respect by the Indonesian people – I learnt this from my friend Ria!). He is the junior regional dhalang, who is currently about 30 years old. Pak Eddy has watched him perform since he was 8. This performance even incorporated a Western drum amidst the traditional gamelan orchestra! The cymbals are used to great effect to accentuate the emotive moments.

Front view

This performance is a part of a religious rite, and begins with a period of prayer / chanting. The audience is made up of the royal family, figures dressed in uniform (a political party?) in an outdoor performance space. It seems that that the first row is reserved for important people (or spirits) because no one attempts to sit there. No sitting on the stage for this performance. A large proportion of the audience is 50 and above, and we are seated next to a French couple from Nice who were recommended to watch this show by their hotel. Even though the performance is seven hours long, and we are hindered by our inability to understand Javanese, the performance is so engaging that we can’t fall asleep (especially the fight scenes! Wow!).

According to my friend Dhani, the most exciting moments come at 10pm, 12am+, and 2am+. Of course, the non-stop flow of free food and drinks helped too! It takes such great stamina to watch the Wayang to its end – can’t imagine how much energy it takes to perform it. (Ki Seno looked absolutely exhausted when it was over!) At 4am, there is still a sizeable audience of about 30 – 40 members – looks like these performances must mean a lot to them.

#2: 20th December 2010 – Commemoration of Ki Roger Alan Long’s death (attended from approx 8pm to 12am)

Food offerings for Roger Allen Long (in picture)

The second all-night performance is made in honour of the deceased American Dhalang Roger Alan Long (1938 – 2007). He was an eminent director and actor who also had a passion for Javanese shadow puppetry, and also a professor and associate dean of the College of Arts and Humanities at the University of Hawaii.

In the Javanese culture, rituals are held several days after one passes away: 1 day, 3 days, 7 days, 40 days, 100 days, one lunar year – 354 days, 11 days less than an international year –  2 lunar years, and then 1000 days. Today we are commemorating the 1000 days since Ki Roger’s passing (the event was pushed back slightly becuase its organization was disrupted by the Merapi eruption).

The performance is held in the house that he used to stay in, and the puppets used tonight are from his favourite set, which he sent back to Yogyakarta to be used by the local people. The Wayang tonight does not tell a specific story, but is constructed by several episodes based on the character Setyaki from the epic the Mahabharata, whom Ki Roger loved and his teacher said he resembled: full of innter drives, determination, and focus. In the episodes, Setyaki is portrayed as a hero that the people in the town all like very much, probably what Ki Roger was to this community.

Setyaki

Credits: https://wayangkancil.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/setyaki.jpg?w=162

With Joan Suyenaga

The event appears to be a private function. This observation is confirmed by Joan Suyenaga, the host of the event. Joan is an American – also a third-generation Japanese – who has come to make her home in Yogyakarta after studying music under Ki Roger at the University of Hawaii. In the audience are many other students,a academics, Wayang practitioners, neighbours, and family friends who are gathered to remember Ki Roger with a Wayang Kulit performance because the Javanese shadow puppet theatre meant so much to him, and his memory means so much to them.

She shares that Roger’s last wish was to spread his ashes in three different locations – one third with his brothers and sisters in Illinois, another third in Hawaii, and the last third in Jogja. The family will be spreading his ashes over the sea in a ceremony on the Monday after the Wayang Kulit performance (20th December 2010).

#3: 20th December 2010 – Celebration of Universitas Gadjah Mada anniversary (attended from approx 12.45am to 4.30am)

The last Wayang Kulit performance is held in conjunction with the celebration of the anniversary of Universitas Gadjah Mada. Despite being a ‘school function’, it is still open to the public, and there do not seem to be many students among the audience.

We made it there at about 12.45am, just in time for the funniest bit with the comic characters. Ki Seno was also the dhalang for this performance (same as performance #1 near the Kraton). This time, we had Wisnu next to us to translate the story! The name of the story is Sesaji Rajasuya (thanks Wisnu! :)), which is translated as ‘offering to the gods’. You can watch his explanation here:

+ The good king Krishna wants to have power so that everyone in the kingdom can prosper, while the bad king Jurosando wants the power for himself.

Ki Seno seems to be excellent at the comic scenes – if only we could understand them all!

Which explains the sleep that we had to catch up on upon our return…